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Post by stellafella on Nov 23, 2015 8:51:11 GMT
Chain run is going to be tight as feck with a 190 on in a slingy frame
Re the trigger nut thing ... I have stuck one on a bandit engine & used a MK2 casing but with an offset sprocket it did foul (wasn't a b12 or slingy frame btw)
All I did was space the casing a few mm & put a longer clutch pushrod in, how far you go with that idea has to be a judgement call for yourself, I was worried about bending a longer pushrod but with only about 4mm extra length it was & still is fine
Hope it helps matey Thanks for the good info mate, i heard something similar about the rod idea before but i think they got round it by using a 6mm ballbearing in the rod recess in the slave cylinder to move the rod out. Chain run is tight, but I have managed to get around it I'll put some pics up later
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Post by gsexr on Nov 23, 2015 18:25:25 GMT
If anybody remember,s scara from the old oss site slabby turbo thread.......... he sent me a pic of a white faced speedo that work,s of gps ? as i said i was havin problem,s with a radial front on my slabby.........
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Post by paddy on Nov 23, 2015 19:06:16 GMT
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Post by bluedog59 on Nov 23, 2015 20:23:41 GMT
I converted my Mk1 B12 to run GSXR600 clocks. Fitted Mk2 1200 sprocket cover, brazed castellated sensor to sprocket nut as output shaft not drilled for bolt. Modified loom and fitted Speedo Healer to calibrate new clocks. All works fine apart from Chec stays lit due to lack of F1 system and fuel light not connected. That,s exactly what I did apart from the speedo healer. Reading was a bit fast but it's the easiest way of making your bike faster.
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Post by stellafella on Jan 11, 2016 21:32:27 GMT
Haven't looked at the slingshot for a few months as Ive been teaching my kids how to ride. Its at the back of the shed and the poor thing hasn't got a look in recently. Just had a few days off and managed to tidy the shed up and get to it to tinker.
done a few small things, new throttle cable, adjustable sus links and speedo bracket. the more observant of you will notice ive put on a bodykit that been in my loft after selling the blue and white one.
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Post by stellafella on Jan 11, 2016 21:33:32 GMT
sus links
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Post by stellafella on Jan 11, 2016 21:37:39 GMT
only have make do bolts in at the moment, the rose joints are 20mm thick compared to the 6mm of the original dog bones. I put some bones on which were 165mm and felt they were to long with this set up. the adjustable linkage will give me 160mm -130mm. I cant see me adjusting it by more than 10mm though
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Post by rusty on Jan 11, 2016 22:01:55 GMT
Looking good so far:-)
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Post by stellafella on Jan 11, 2016 22:02:16 GMT
not a good pic of the chain run,I will put up a better pic (hopefully quicker than I said last time), got about 3mm on the frame and about 6mm on the tyre. Using a 6mm offset front sprocket, and a stepped rear sprocket , which ive flipped over to move it closer to the hub. Thinking I will get the sprocket carrier milled down by 1mm as well as the front sprocket to make it more cental
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Post by gsexr on Jan 12, 2016 17:36:08 GMT
Looking good..........far better and further on than mine ? i just carnt be arsed at the moment.... i need sum sun ?
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Post by paddy on Jan 12, 2016 17:48:03 GMT
I couldn't think why it looked different until I read it. So what scheme are you thinking of now?? You were going black and white weren't you?? Or was it a reversed blue and white?
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Post by stellafella on Jan 12, 2016 21:24:20 GMT
Still blue and white mate , original 91 m style. The other bodywork had them fuckin' horrible after market decals. It would cost more to rub em down and then paint , so sold them to a dude in london. Had a complete spare set of panels in the loft in flat white. Only problem is the spare single seat unit is in mint condition in red, might look for another to paint rather than spoil that one.
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Post by stellafella on Jan 20, 2016 8:46:22 GMT
Got a couple days off, few things to do to my kids bike then onto the 1127
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Post by stellafella on Jan 20, 2016 15:02:45 GMT
few things turned into 4 hours, leak on the hydraulic clutch turn out to be a hairline crack in the casing, which unfortunately is part of the clutch casing. to get the casing off drained oil and fluid. remove water pump. new clutch/hydraulic cover, water pump seal and gaskets on order. Probably going to take the engine out , its tight in the frame and the kickstart return spring is going to be a bitch. don't want to fuck up cover or gaskets whilst trying to get the spring on. on a positive side its only 4 bolts
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Post by paddy on Jan 20, 2016 17:01:33 GMT
Who needs a kick start, just push it lol. Is there such thing as a spring fitting tool?? Other than a screw driver, pliers and tons of swearing (and a hammer to hit things to let off steam) I remember the fizzy I sold would bump start within a foot.
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