|
|
Post by paddy on Mar 4, 2016 11:05:10 GMT
I remember being told on the old temp 'other suzuki site' to used varied revs. I need to be clear on what this means and if it is the correct way. My interpretation of this is pootle along then give it some beans, pootle along then keep it in the mid range rom a bit etc. I Don't know if that's correct or for how many miles I need to run them in for? Apparently it's asked a lot online with varied answers so maybe breaking in procedures should be given when purchasing pistons/rings etc. |
|
|
|
Post by 370steve on Mar 4, 2016 11:40:36 GMT
I was told not to give it more than 5k for the first 500 miles, then after that over the next few k miles just take it easy without using it near the red line.
but as you have discovered, there are a lot of different ideas of how to do it best!!
|
|
|
|
Post by kokolis on Mar 4, 2016 12:18:16 GMT
Most important thing is to let her reach working temperature (80c, or 30km, or half hour driving).
The first 2-300km taken easy, after that short bursts till 7-8k rpm, untill you reach 500km
|
|
|
|
Post by paddy on Mar 4, 2016 12:23:01 GMT
That's going to take forever, it took me 7 months to do 1000 miles
|
|
|
|
Post by bigkenxx on Mar 4, 2016 14:29:56 GMT
Both answers are Bob on , I did used to thrash my race bikes in but I was doing rebuilds very frequent not from blow ups just to keep on top of maintenance.
|
|
|
|
Post by paddy on Mar 4, 2016 15:41:49 GMT
Its going to kill me letting knob heads blow me away till its run in. I think I'll get one of them stationary training rollers for push bikes and do it in the garage lol
|
|
|
|
Post by quazi on Mar 4, 2016 16:19:17 GMT
Ahh the art of running in. Wring it's fooking neck, after it's warmed up. Or you could behave like a big girl and fanny about for miles until you think it's ok to speed up a bit.  Some will tell you to use mineral oil for the first 500 miles. Whatever you choose to do will be fine.  The carbs won't last long enough for you to wear the rings out.  Manufacturers recommendations are nothing more than a legal arse covering exercise, incase something falls off, then they can tell you "we told you to take it easy first". |
|
|
|
Post by rusty on Mar 4, 2016 17:17:15 GMT
It kills me every time decent folk over 6ft 7 thrash me...oh how I wish I was as fast as rusty:-( I hear this all the time!! ;-) |
|
|
|
Post by paddy on Mar 4, 2016 17:36:36 GMT
It kills me every time decent folk over 6ft 7 thrash me...oh how I wish I was as fast as rusty:-( I hear this all the time!! ;-) I don't doubt you are but ours is a drag race not a skills race (cue abuse and backlash from angry drag racers lol) |
|
|
|
Post by rusty on Mar 4, 2016 18:53:44 GMT
I hear this all the time!! ;-) I don't doubt you are but ours is a drag race not a skills race (cue abuse and backlash from angry drag racers lol) Erm lol What's the key to winning a drag race....being faster than the other person;-) |
|
|
|
Post by paddy on Mar 4, 2016 19:44:20 GMT
I don't doubt you are but ours is a drag race not a skills race (cue abuse and backlash from angry drag racers lol) Erm lol What's the key to winning a drag race....being faster than the other person;-) Yea but in the context I took it as fast in the twisties and more general nutter type riding rather than just a straight line from lights. |
|
|
|
Post by kokolis on Mar 5, 2016 7:17:35 GMT
I don't doubt you are but ours is a drag race not a skills race (cue abuse and backlash from angry drag racers lol) Erm lol What's the key to winning a drag race....being faster than the other person;-) Reaction, perfect gear changes, straight line. |
|
|
|
Post by rusty on Mar 5, 2016 7:20:09 GMT
Erm lol What's the key to winning a drag race....being faster than the other person;-) Reaction, perfect gear changes, straight line. Details...details;-) |
|
|
|
Post by kokolis on Mar 5, 2016 7:42:40 GMT
Reaction:when light turns green you have to optimize your reaction time, a gain of up too half a second.
Perfect gear changes:a common mistake is to go deep in redline, if you change gears just before, the engine remains in its powerband, practice practice.
Straight line:practice to go off straight, if you ve to adjust your line you loose time cause instandly you go of the throttle, dont spin the tyre, spinning the tyre means loss of time and power, how impressive it looks spinning the tyre will bring the engine to redline, so you ll be forced to change gear, at that moment the thing you dont have is traction, all the power just spins the tyre, then you change gear, at that moment traction gains over power/speed, the engine looses his power delivery and needs time to re-gain, great loss of time there.
|
|
|
|
Post by quazi on Mar 5, 2016 8:58:08 GMT
In addition to Kokolis post, you need to feed the clutch in too not dump it, feed it in the quickest available time you can without bogging it down or slipping it. Two things can happen here, you have too much torque and not enough grip, or not enough torque and too many revs. The more time you're on the clutch the less time you're going forwards, feed it in too quick and you're liable to either bog down or lose grip. We're talking fractions of a second here, but it can win or lose you the spot, then it's technique, repeat, repeat. Get it right and you will at least get a good start, then shut your eyes and think of England. ha ha. Oh, and make sure your carbs are set up properly to respond to the demand..... accelerator pump included. |
|
